I was in the Andaman Islands with my husband and children for the last 10 days or so. For us, traveling is more addiction and passion than a pastime and, as a family, we've been around 5 continents via plane, train, cruise ship, automobile and various other means of transport including cycle "vans," camels and elephants!
I'm beginning to digress even before I've begun. To get back to the point, I love the Andaman Islands and keep returning to them every couple of years. I have a visceral connection to the Bay of Bengal and these gentle, hilly, palm-tree laden, rich-green drops of land bobbing in the Bay's distinctive pista-coloured waters hold a special attraction for me. Every visit back confirms their beauty remains unsurpassed by anywhere else I've been.
The first time I went back to the Islands after the big South Asian tsunami happened on Boxing Day of 2004, I was solar-plexused by the scope of the destruction I saw all around me. Six years and three more visits later, I can still see many places where what was once land is now a permanent salt marsh.
This brings me to the cost of the damage that a hurricane causes on average.
A couple of years ago, Aila came and went while I was vacationing in Europe. I heard from family, of course, of the “never-before-this” force of the winds. I saw friends’ status updates on Facebook about the hundreds of trees that toppled, verandahs that crumbled and people who were felled by Aila. I read reports on the Internet about the swathe of destruction Aila wreaked on villages that happened to dwell on its way.
But I wasn’t there when it happened. Nothing happened to my home or people I knew. Therefore, despite the fact that I made all the right noises, Aila didn’t really impinge on me.
When we came back, we saw remnants of Aila’s demolition work in the left-over stumps and branches of so many trees that had, since my childhood, stood guard on the side of the roads we took. We donated old clothes for Aila victims and paid an extra sum on our club bills when asked. We heard from our maids about the flooding of their homes.
We heard; we sympathized; we murmured our understanding of their anguish. But we didn’t understand. We weren’t them or theirs and it hadn’t happened to us or ours.
Then, a couple of days ago, this gentleman who has a mission in The Netherlands and in Florida came to visit me. Of and on, over the last 15 years, I’ve been commissioned by him to write publicity material for his mission. This time, he brought pictures to show me. He had hundreds of photographs of the Sunderbans villages that had been mangled by Aila’s show of power.
Dozens of dead cattle, half submerged in mud; shocked, vacant faces of those who had lost their already meager all; a beautiful water-body where there obviously should have been land; a house that had been washed away several hundred meters until it hit a bank still standing intact but at an awkward angle—the people inside the house were found drowned when the house was discovered several days later.
Looking at those pictures, the cost of the damage that a natural disaster like the south asian tsunami or a hurricane causes on average finally came home to me.
Aila came and went in a few hours. The full extent of her devastation has become visible only now. It will be years before those who’ve lost land, homes and livestock can be rehabilitated.
Those of us in the city who have short memories and shorter tempers rant and rave about a fresh onslaught of refugees from villages and the impossible pressure they have put on the already overburdened infrastructure of our city.
We talk about the government machinery and its vote-bank politics that lets hawkers take over every inch of free space in the city.
We talk about the growing number bodies sleeping on the foot-paths and wrinkle our noses as we walk faster past a new shanty town and complain about the exponential rate at which the poor propagate.
Aila has all but faded from our memories. She will, however, impact all of us for a long, long time. The South Asian tsunami and its effects are no longer daily conversation for the literati. The scars it left are still visible to those who want to see.